ULF-1
ULF-1 Discussion Archive
Anonymous static archive of the former Mailman list

Re: [ULF-1] Ulf-1 Digest, Vol 67, Issue 8

From
Member 113
Date
2018-04-10 07:20 UTC+02:00
Message
#0559
Hello Werner,
Your electric ulf looks good. Do you have a experiences in air with this?
How many fly or hours do you have?
Two propellers are good for safety and easy buit in ulf but what about law? 
What category do you use for registration?
In Czech we have ULL category with only one engine :-(

Best Regards
Petr

---------- Původní e-mail ----------
Od: [email]
Komu: [email]
Datum: 9. 4. 2018 9:53:46
Předmět: Re: [ULF-1] Ulf-1 Digest, Vol 67, Issue 8 
" hello Petr,
have a look at my electric ulf-1
regard
werner 
---- [email] schrieb ----
  " 

Hello Doug, Hello All,
I am a new here. I am novice. I never built any aircraft still.
But I like ULF-1. It is sympatic small and oldscool airplane.
I am waiting for my building plans now.

I will draw the experiences of you and from this discuion from begin.
I am modeller and I have quite good experiences with high power electric 
propulsion (abaout 5-15KW). My idea is ULF-1 with electric.
I hope this electric propulsion can be increase ULF possibilities and 
practical usage.

Have nice Day

Petr
<> ---------- Původní e-mail ----------
Od: Member 1 <[email]>
Komu: [email]
Datum: 2. 4. 2018 4:02:38
Předmět: Re: [ULF-1] Ulf-1 Digest, Vol 67, Issue 8 " 

Welcome to the list Member 9! (Dieter was subscribed previously, I 
assume he is re-subscribing with a new address).

We have had a good discussion on construction adhesives recently, most if 
not all of it is included below in case you missed it. The formatting is 
messy, but I did go through and snip out most of the noise.

Doug


On [phone]:50 AM, Member 111 wrote:
" 
Good to know, thank you again. I was ignorant of the term Heat Deflection 
Under Load until I read this article, a pretty good read: http://epoxy-it.
com/ss/if-you-can-t-take-the-heat
(http://epoxy-it.com/ss/if-you-can-t-take-the-heat)
 
I don’t foresee a scenario where a fabric covered ULF-1, ostensibly painted 
white or a similarly bright color, even parked in bright sunlight on a 
summer afternoon could expect temperatures exceeding the glass transition 
temperature listed on system 3’s or West Systems’ material data sheets. That
being said, this behavior of thermoset structural adhesives was not 
something I was aware of and bears thinking about when considering it for 
critical structural bonds like spar caps and d tube plywood. 
 
 
 
Austin 
   " 
On [phone]:56 AM, Member 112 wrote: "T-88 was the only epoxy passed for 
use in aircraft many years ago " "before it was purchased by System3." 
Passed by whom? Somewhere outside the US? This is something I have never 
heard before. I've been involved with homebuilt aviation and aircraft 
restoration since 1967 and built components and airframes using Hexcel, 
T-88, Epon, and FPL-16A with the only issue about approval coming on a 
German glider which had a mfr - approved repair procedure specifying 
which epoxy products were to be used.
Chris

Sorry Chris, perhaps the use of the word "only" was wrong.  This is the 
quote from the System Three site.

T-88 has been used for years in the building of experimental wooden aircraft
and for woodworkers who desire a clear glue line. More recently T-88 has 
been approved by the FAA for the repair of certified wooden aircraft on a 
case-by-case rather than blanket basis. Check with us for the current status
prior to use on certified aircraft. T-88 meets the requirements of MIL-A-
81236(OS) andCID-A-A-3053.
R. Member 112, 
iPhone: [phone]

Austin,

You are correct?T-88 cures all by itself at a pretty wide range of 
temperature, and no external heat source is needed.  What I meant about the 
delta T is that once this epoxy is fully cured, you can heat the joint up 
with a heat gun, and once the joint gets very hot, the glue will begin to 
soften and can be pulled apart.  These temperatures will probably never be 
reached even when the
aircraft is sitting outside in full sun on a hot day, unless maybe if the 
structure is black colored.

When we have thickened this epoxy with cotton flox, we have never used any 
specific ratio of flox to glue.  We just mix up a batch of T-88, then add 
flox until we can build a ?tower? of glue with the mixing stick where the 
glue is thick enough to kind of
?stand up on its own?.  This type of mixture is sometimes needed where gaps 
need to be filled in a joint, or on vertical gluing surfaces where glue 
dripping down by gravity is a concern.  Sometimes we will paint the two 
mating surfaces first with straight epoxy like on very porous surfaces like 
foam or balsa.  This will
allow the epoxy to soak in a bit first, before we use the flox mixture.

Hope this helps,
Member 67


  "On Mar 27, 2018, at 6:18 PM, Member 111 <[email]
(mailto:[redacted]> wrote:" " " "Hi everyone, thanks for 
your replies.  A few follow up questions if I may." " " "Member 67, thanks 
for your reply. I have followed your EAA chapter?s  build closely, thanks so
much for publishing your flickr page of build photos, they really gave me a 
better understanding of the spar cap construction. " " " "I was leaning 
toward going with T-88 only as well, since I?m a composites guy and epoxy is
much more familiar to me than UF. " " " "You say the delta T is undesirable.
 My understanding of Delta T is the temp change through the cross link cure,
does T-88 require an external heat source to cause this? I was under the 
impression that t-88 is a room-temp cure resin. Is this not the case? " " " 
"You mentioned you thickened with flox, can you tell me what ratio of flox 
to epoxy you used? Dieter calls out using flox-thickened epoxy in several 
joints, but doesn?t mention a ratio. I?m assuming the reason for including 
the flox is for weight reduction and gap filling, but there is such thing as
too much filler, so I was wondering what your method was. " " " "Your glider
is beautiful, I very much look forward to seeing it fly! " " " "Austin in 
Utah " " " " "On Mar 27, 2018, at 2:45 AM, [email]
(mailto:[redacted] wrote:" " " "Sorry, I hit "send" 
before proofreading. FPL-16A is mixed 10:1 by " " " "VOLUME, not by WEIGHT."
" " "Chris" " " " " " " " "On [phone]:14 PM, Member 18 wrote:" " " 
" " "* I manufactured a set of Acro Sport Wings with FPL-16A Adhesive and " 
" " " " "found it to be an excellent adhesive, The thicker resin is brushed 
on " " " " " "one part and a thin watery part wiped on the other part to be 
joined " " " " " "then pressed together,*" " " " " " " " " " " "This is NOT 
how to use FPL-16A. It is mixed 10 parts resin to 1 part " " " " " "hardener
by weight, then applied to the surfaces to be joined. I " " " " " "believe 
what you describe is a technique for a resorcinol glue of some " " " " " "
kind. BTW, FPL-16A, when mixed 10:1, is an excellent adhesive and most " " "
" " "of today's commercially available epoxies owe a lot to its basic " " " 
" " "formulation." " " " " " " " " " " "Chris" " " " " " "[email](mailto:[redacted] writes:" " " " " " " " " " " 
" " " " " Hi Austin, Welcome to the Build forum! We built all the airframe" 
" " " " " " " components on our ULF-1 NT/E (stands for new technology and" "
" " " " " " electric motor powered) with System 3, T-88. We searched far and
" " " " " " " " wide and decided on this epoxy. The only thing we did not 
like" " " " " " " " was the delta T on this glue. When you heat it up (needs
to be" " " " " " " " heated up a lot!), it loosens up. Now this can come in 
handy when" " " " " " " " you make a mistake and have to take something 
apart! Saves having" " " " " " " " to rebuild a whole assembly in some 
cases. We also liked that" " " " " " " " T-88 was a little bit more flexible
when compared to West Systems" " " " " " " " epoxy. We mixed up all our 
epoxy by weight using an electronic" " " " " " " " gram scale. If you use 
too much hardener for example, the glue" " " " " " " " will set up way too 
soft. Where we had to thicken the T-88 we" " " " " " " " used cotton flox 
which is structural. We are using West Systems" " " " " " " " epoxy on all 
the fiberglass parts such as the spoilers and" " " " " " " " fittings. Hope 
this helps! Member 72 Sent from my iPhone >" " " " " " " " On Mar 26,
2018, at 4:23 PM, Member 111" " " " " " " " <[email]
(mailto:[redacted] <mailto:[redacted]
(mailto:[redacted]>>" " " " " " " " wrote: > > Hi again 
everyone. > > I've noticed that the plans" " " " " " " " call for aerodux 
resorcinol urea formaldehyde glue in the" " " " " " " " construction of ribs
and even the spar cap laminations. I've read" " " " " " " " of some other 
builders substituting T-88 for all adhesives in the" " " " " " " " aircraft,
 and wanted to get other ULF-1 builders' take on the" " " " " " " " 
question. > > Also, several parts of the build manual call out" " " " " " " 
" "thickened" epoxy, but do not state the ratio of thickener to" " " " " " "
" epoxy. The use of cotton flakes which I take to mean flox is also" " " " "
" " " mentioned. Does Dieter intend to refer to what ratio system 3 or" " " 
" " " " " West Systems recommend? > > Austin >" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " 
" " " " " " " " " " "Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 21:14:28 -0400" " " "From: 
[email](mailto:[redacted]" " " "To: [email]
(mailto:[redacted]" " " "Subject: Re: [ULF-1] Modern Adhesives vs
Plan callouts" "   " "By Golly you are correct and I am wrong!!! I just 
checked our container and of course why would the Forest Labs create an 
adhesive that built a foreign aircraft, however Hughes adhesive is a 
acceptable adhesive but epoxies that are equal mixtures are the easiest?to 
work with and can provide great results mixing in small?amounts which we do 
alot of in aircraft building. Now if I could just think of the glue I used 
40 years ago, seem it was aero something, oh well thanks for the 
correction.?" " " "?" " " "In a message dated [phone]:18:08 PM Eastern 
Standard Time, [email](mailto:[redacted] writes:" " " " " 
" " "?" " " "Sorry, I hit "send" before proofreading. FPL-16A is mixed 10:1 
by VOLUME, not by WEIGHT. " " " "Chris" " " " " " " "On [phone]:14 PM, 
Member 18 wrote:" " " "?I manufactured a set of Acro Sport Wings with 
FPL-16A Adhesive and found it to be an excellent adhesive, The thicker resin
is brushed on one part and a thin watery part wiped on the other part to be 
joined then pressed together," " " " " " " "This is NOT how to use FPL-16A. 
It is mixed 10 parts resin to 1 part hardener by weight, then applied to the
surfaces to be joined. I believe what you describe is a technique for a 
resorcinol glue of some kind. BTW, FPL-16A, when mixed 10:1, is an excellent
adhesive and most of today's commercially available epoxies owe a lot to its
basic formulation." " " " " " " "Chris" " " " " " " "[email]
(mailto:[redacted] writes:" " " "?" " " "Hi Austin, Welcome to
the Build forum! We built all the airframe components on our ULF-1 NT/E 
(stands for new technology and electric motor powered) with System 3, T-88. 
We searched far and wide and decided on this epoxy. The only thing we did 
not like was the delta T on this glue. When you heat it up (needs to be 
heated up a lot!), it loosens up. Now this can come in handy when you make a
mistake and have to take something apart! Saves having to rebuild a whole 
assembly in some cases. We also liked that T-88 was a little bit more 
flexible when compared to West Systems epoxy. We mixed up all our epoxy by 
weight using an electronic gram scale. If you use too much hardener for 
example, the glue will set up way too soft. Where we had to thicken the T-88
we used cotton flox which is structural. We are using West Systems epoxy on 
all the fiberglass parts such as the spoilers and fittings. Hope this helps!
Member 72 Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 26, 2018, at 4:23 PM, Austin 
Lovele" " ss " "<[email](mailto:[redacted]
> wrote: > > Hi again everyone. > > I?ve noticed that the plans call for 
aerodux resorcinol urea formaldehyde glue in the construction of ribs and 
even the spar cap laminations. I?ve read of some other builders substituting
T-88 for all adhesives in the aircraft, and wanted to get other ULF-1 
builders? take on the question. > > Also, several parts of the build manual 
call out ?thickened? epoxy, but do not state the ratio of thickener to 
epoxy. The use of cotton flakes which I take to mean flox is also mentioned.
Does Dieter intend to refer to what ratio system 3 or West Systems 
recommend? > > Austin > " " " " " " 
" " 
_______________________________________________
ULF-1 discussion list -- [email]

Subscribe, Unsubscribe, Preferences, List information:
http://lists.ulf-1.com/listinfo.cgi/ulf-1-ulf-1.com" 

" _______________________________________________ 
ULF-1 discussion list -- [email] 

Subscribe, Unsubscribe, Preferences, List information: 
http://lists.ulf-1.com/listinfo.cgi/ulf-1-ulf-1.com"