ULF-1 Discussion Archive
Anonymous static archive of the former Mailman list
Anonymous static archive of the former Mailman list
Re: [ULF-1] transfer of plans to Member 60
Hello! My name is Lisandro Iaffar, i am a 21 year old argentinean Aeronautic Engineerig student (Universidad Nacional de Córdoba). I wondered if it would be possible for any of you could pass me the planes of ULF-1, in order to enrich our library files, leaving open the possibility of a future construction. If you need any information about me or my college, even the word of a teacher, we will gladly give them to you. I can even talk to my teachers to give you Horten gliders plans in exchange for the ULF-1 plans. I have not yet said anything to my teachers, because I will not bother them you if you are unable to pass me the ULF-1 planes. I await your response, and that the will be favorable on your side ... and the side of my professors jejej. It would be a fruitful exchange! Thanks for your time! PD: I use my English, plus the google translator, any error=> blame google ... > Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 19:22:07 -0600 > From: [email] > To: [email] > Subject: Re: [ULF-1] transfer of plans to Member 60 > > Here's a great tip for transferring small part drawings to just about > any light-colored material. It may not be what Svenning is looking for, > but it is very [email] need to produce paper copies with a > laser printer or photocopier. These can be directly printed from a CAD > file, or perhaps a PDF, or some other image. Or it could be a photocopy > of a paper drawing. Of course you have to verify that the printer or > photocopier is printing to the needed scale in both X and Y directions > (I sometimes create rulers in the X and Y directions in CAD drawings to > verify the scale when printing). Drawings that are bigger than the > printer's capability can be taped up from multiple sheets if needed. > > Orient the paper copy over your material as you wish to cut it, ink-side > down, and tape it in a couple of places so it can't move. Wet a folded > paper towel or rag with acetone, and brush it over the paper quickly > until it is wetted out and some light pressure has been applied to the > whole surface. Pull the paper off and voila! Much of the ink is now on > your workpiece. It will make you laugh the first time you do it, it's so > easy and works so well. Some printers use ink that won't work for this > process... I don't remember the details, but a quick web search should > produce the answer. You'll find others talking about this trick on the > web as well. > > Happy holidays everyone, > > Doug > > > On [phone]:38 PM, [email] wrote: > > Hi Svenning, > > > > I took the plans to a copying shop and enlarged the tail spar plans to full size and built directly over them on the build table, with a piece of waxed paper covering them to keep the glue from sticking to the plan. We ended up having to redraw the full size plan slightly to ensure the ribs widths matched perfectly to the loft drawing of the ribs at each station along the spar. We used small brads to hold the sticks in place while the glue dried. We also made up a bunch of small sand bags from plastic zip-lock sandwich bags and 1/2 sandwich bags, double bagged. We also used plastic containers with flat lids filled with sand as additonal "holders". We turned these upside down so the flat side would do the holding down. > > > > Hope some of these tips help! > > > > Member 72 > > S.N. 343E > > > > > > ---- "Member 79" <[email]> wrote: > >> Hello! > >> > >> What is the simplest and most accurate method for transfering of plans parts to Member 60 or metal? Kind regards, Svenning > > _______________________________________________ > > ULF-1 discussion list -- [email] > > > > Subscribe, Unsubscribe, Preferences, List information: > > http://lists.ulf-1.com/listinfo.cgi/ulf-1-ulf-1.com > > _______________________________________________ > ULF-1 discussion list -- [email] > > Subscribe, Unsubscribe, Preferences, List information: > http://lists.ulf-1.com/listinfo.cgi/ulf-1-ulf-1.com