Re: [ULF-1] Gluing surface preparation

From: Member 72
Date: 2018-06-10 22:08 UTC-04:00
Message: #0605

Hi Austin,

We used a regular large plane (Bailey plane, made in USA, 14” foot, probably my Grandfather’s from the 1930’s!) but with a super sharp blade to shape the spar caps.  We found an article on how to make the the blade “scary sharp”.  The article is, “Sharpening...With the Scary Sharp System”.  Check www.woodencreations.us/scarysharp.htm.  We got a large piece of plate glass, purchased a honing guide for the correct blade angle (for us, 20-25 degrees), and worked the blade with a whole lot of sandpaper grades, starting with about 150 and working down to 1500 for a mirror finish on the blade.  The sharper the blade, the better results.

We held our spar caps down to the straight and level building board with pieces of double sided carpet tape, a technique we have used through out our build, whenever we needed to keep wooden pieces from moving.  You just need to account for the thickness of the tape.  We marked out the stations on the build board and set out to planing.  Working the spar cap down in two “planes” was tedious and tricky,  but with a super sharp plane, not terribly difficult.

Good luck with yours!

Member 72

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 10, 2018, at 5:58 PM, Member 111 <[email]> wrote:
> 
> Member 67 et al,
> 
> Did you use a fine toothing plane to rough up all spruce and ply at the bonding areas? Could you describe your method of shaping parts with complex geometries like spar caps? Did you use a series of planes? Would you mind sharing what brand, type, and methodologies of cutting and sharpening them if so? Also for inspection, was a simple scale used to measure cap height and width or were calipers and more precise methods used? Thanks again for being so active and forthcoming with details about your great project. 
> 
> Austin
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